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Andrej Pejic, represented by Storm Models.

Isn’t it to define beauty by gender to truly repress it? What is this “norm” people are so happy about? If we were all happy with the “norm”,  cosmetic companies would not be so profitable. Is this norm not merely socio-acceptable “performances” on a stage, its accompanying libretto the romantic paternalism of Judeo Christian capitalism, and misogeny?  Reducing society to limiting states of either/or has been the past, but how are we as conscious image makers shaping a progressive future?

I read an article on the UK Telegraph about new modeling trends. Is Andrej Pejic androgynous? Perhaps; in certain clothes, in specific lighting, emotions, etc. But overall, I’d say the Pejic beauty is effeminate.

Effeminate men have always been far more socially acceptable than masculine women. Kisha Batista, for example. So is it really about the negotiated fragilities of androgyny or a cultural discomfort with female strength?

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Freja Beha Erichsen as Apollo, photographed for the 2011 Pirelli calendar by Karl Lagerfeld.

Iris Strub and Freja Beha Erichsen

Albert Watson. Left: Hitchcock with Goose, Los Angeles, 1973. Platinum print, 30 x 22". Right: Christy Turlington, New York City, 1990. Platinum print, 30 x 22".

Albert Watson. Left: Monkey with Gun, New York City, 1992. Platinum print, 30 x 22". Right: Alina with Billiard Ball, New York City, 2010, Platinum print 30 x 22".

Albert Watson. Right: Gabrielle Reece, Vivienne Westwood, 1989. Platinum print, 30 x 22". Left: 18th-Century Pruning Shears on Camel-Bone Chest, New York City, 2010. Platinum print, 30 x 22".

Kristina Salinovic opened the 54 piece collection of Marc Jacob's SS/2010 collection for Louis Vuitton. Jacobs shared his inspirations with Hilary Alexander of the Examiner of his inspiration: the early work of Kenzo Takada and Kansai Yamamoto—the first Japanese designers to show their collections in Paris. "Of course, these are my references. I love the exoticism, the way Paris embraced Orientalism," Jacobs said.

Coiffed in an hommage to Susan Sontag’s iconic white streak and covered in $20,000 worth of crystal, Kristina Salinovic opened Marc Jacob’s 2011 Spring collection for Louis Vuitton. Printed on the program notes on every seat, the following quote:

“The relation between boredom and camp taste cannot be overestimated. Camp taste is by its nature possible only in affluent societies, in societies or circles capable of experiencing the psychopathology of affluence.” —Susan Sontag

And that’s how Marc Jacobs blends fashion (blunt consumerism);  urban dance culture (Paris is Burning); and that haughty flair inherent to the city of natural and most unnatural lights (“…our favourite colour is shiny”).

“Taste is an awful word, no one should ever really use it.” —Marc Jacobs

Dispelling prevailing agist perceptions of beauty, 90s icon Kristen McMenamy—who at 46 is as fit and stunning as ever—closed the show. Chess maven Carmen Kass (32) and activist Alek Wek (33) both walked the runway, glowing veterans of an industry that sees age as a numbered wrinkle, rather than an expression of life. Because Jacobs can pretty much do whatever he wants, I don’t think peppering his runway with models older than contemporary ‘It’ girls was a risk—no, it’s a clear statement.

Jeneil Williams in Love Magazine #3

The six covers of the 60th issue of Stern Fotografie, featuring Karl Lagerfeld's selected 50 favourite photographs of Claudia Schiffer.

Love Magazine, 2010 Spring/Summer, photographed by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggot

Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Kristen McMenamy, Amber Valletta, Daria Werbowy, Natalia Vodianova, Jeneil Williams, Lara Stone

Erin O\'Connor by Tim Walker for Vogue Viktor & Rolf by Tim Walker for Vogue

Erin O’Connor and Viktor & Rolf by Tim Walker for a Vogue fashion editorial.
Even Better: Tim Walker Pictures.

Craig McDean for Vogue USA May 2008

model Atong by Marc Pillai for Russian Vogue

The fabulously expressive Atong by Mark Pillai for Russian Vogue. WOW.

John French’s photograph from 1965. Anna Wintour, anyone?
The Victoria & Albert museum had a show of John French’s photography in the late 80s. The exhibition catalog from this show is marvelous! Now on my wishist.

Photography by Mark Gong

photography by Mark Gong

I love it when photographers are open to experimentation!

Big Splash

One more image from Spezial Fotografie: Portfolio No. 23 featuring Francis Giacobetti.

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Camilla Akrans: one of my favourite contemporary photographers today. It’s not easy to direct a model to embody the combined feeling of a garment and the location. This quality, is Camila’s talent.

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Timeless glamour is constantly asserted in the work of Paolo Roversi.

Unrelated to the images above, but related to Paolo Roversi: I saw this book at FNAC in Lisbon, and didn’t buy it. Should have! Now, this wonderful volume is definitely on my wishlist: Nudi, by Paolo Roversi


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b8.jpg Photography by William Klein Photography by William Klein Photography by William Klein
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The image by Miles Aldrich is a phenomenal modern take on the 1958 photograph of Maria Callas as Medea, as perfomed in Dallas, Texas.

Armando Cabral by Greg Kadel
Número Homme #13 editorial photographed by Greg Kadel. GENIOUS.

I finally watched Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette. Annie Leibowitz’s cover of Vogue reminded me that I’ve been meaning to see the film. That, and I just picked up Marie Antoinette, Life and Death of the last Great Queen of France Catalina de Habsburgo-Lorena at Bertrand this past December, which I’m still reading.

This last shot is Leibowitz at her directive best.

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Any information regarding this image (photographer, year, publication date) is much appreciated. Kate Mosslooks quite young here, I suspect this shoot is from way before the Pete Doherty days. Which would make the title of the book all the more ironic…

Photographs by Richard Warren (I forget the magazine) featuring the always alluring iconography of the Hitchcock heroine.

Maria Luisa Dress by John Galliano for DiorMaria Luisa Dress by John Galliano for Dior

Maria Luisa Black Silk Taffeta Gown by John Galliano for Christian Dior. Press photo for the show “AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion”, which presents a wide range of works by British designers in The Metropolitan Museum’s English Period Rooms’ The Annie Laurie Aitken Galleries.


From an era of great ideas, designers that defined the era and the man who knew how to put it all in pictures. Still stunning, still relevant.





Supplemental Impulses

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whimsy and adventurism, grouped thematically


Whose Blog is This?

I'm Patricia and this blog is part inspiration wall, part pop culture project, with some links to my writing. I'm a conceptual artist, photo editor, creative director living and working in New York City. My opinions are my own and certainly not paid for. If you want to support this site, click on amazon links peppered throughout this blog. Thank you for reading!




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